Sewing project: 18th century shirt

[luzula]

I am dogsitting at my parents' house for a few days, and they have a sewing machine. So I am taking this opportunity to make an 18th century shirt (inspired by garonne's similar project). It's been ages since I did any sewing, and I'm really enjoying it! I have lovely soft drapey white linen, and my shirt will have the floofiest sleeves ever to floof. Pictures to follow.

Poll #26425

Open to: Registered Users, detailed results viewable to: All, participants: 23

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Should the cuffs of my shirt have...

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Ruffles made of the same cloth as the shirt.
2 (8.7%)

Lace ruffles such as the shirt of Ewen Cameron's court dress clearly has ("And with his free hand he tucked his lace ruffle out of the way." The better to do his swordfighting, of course...)
14 (60.9%)

A combination! You should do cloth ruffles with a narrow border of lace.
6 (26.1%)

No ruffles. Show some restraint, why don't you?
1 (4.3%)

Comments

[skygiants]

Ooh, are you using any particular pattern for this project? I've been meaning to make myself such a shirt for a while ...

[luzula]

Here is the description I'm going by! It's really just made up of rectangles, so it's not that hard. I'm enjoying the gussets, it's the first time I've used that technique.

[skygiants]

Thank you, this is very helpful!!

[osprey_archer]

Lace ruffles a la Ewen Cameron! Then it can be a stealth Ewen cosplay....

[luzula]

Ewen cosplay would be easier than Keith! I mean, not his court dress, but besides the shirt I'd just need a huge rectangular plaid and a belt. : D

[regshoe]

This sounds like a very cool project—I look forward to the pictures :D

I vote for the fancy lace ruffles! This is clearly an occasion for being as extravagant as possible, floofiest of sleeves and laciest of ruffles and all.

[luzula]

The poll results clearly show that I should have lace ruffles. : D I could've gotten lace from the same website where I got the linen, but alas, I didn't think of it. But there's a shop in town that I think will have it.

I'm a bit annoyed that I used the white thread that was already in the machine, since it's a bit coarse and a very slightly different shade from the linen, thus making some of the seams noticeable. Not the inside seams, of course, but it shows on hems and flatfelled seams. I'll definitely switch for the rest of the shirt, and now I'm considering whether I should pick out the slightly noticeable seams and redo them...we'll see how much time it takes.

[ceruleancat]

I replied to the survey, but to my mind, the choice of cuff would depend on what use you intend for that shirt. Casual daily use or cosplaying a working man's outfit or a gentleman's outfit to varying degrees of dandy.
There must be a way to combine the two, to make a simple cuff and a detachable luxurious lacey cuff to go over it when appropriate.
Detachable might also be useful for washing purposes. Unless you get lace that is as sturdy as the linen, the whole thing would require more delicate washing appropriate for the lace, wouldn't it?

If I may infodump, here's a few shirt making vids for your viewing pleasure (you may already be familiar with some). Not suggesting that you hand saw this project, but it's useful to see how people structure and combine the sections, variations in styles and different sewing results, especially the gussets and strengthening. Also, very calm viewing.

Morgan Donner's Sewing a gusset
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0e1BqjWq7Y&t=463s

Bernadette Banner's pirate shirt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql9r8UKIvZs

the modern maker - Regency Shirt Tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBvw1pGVXjk

The Kokkola costume: the 18th-century shirt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPQQo2h8D80

A look at extant 18th century shirts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGcHCyLQBQQ

Making an 18th Century Shirt || For a Riding Habit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlhnAuFBPGQ

18th Century Shirt Sew Along (this is Part 1 of 4)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbSXr_0ftLk

And one 19th century. later
https://youtu.be/dZstUEFRU08?t=1159

[luzula]

Thanks for the links, I'll check them out! To be honest my preferred method of getting information is reading, so I didn't even think to look at youtube (it just frustrates me not to be able to scan the material and see where the bit is that I'm interested in). But of course some things can be easier to demonstrate in video!

Heh, no, not going to handsew the whole thing, but of course there are bits that have to be done that way (the inside of the cuffs and collar). The initial sewing of the gussets went fine, but the strengthening of the seams of the gussets was probably the most challenging part (like, you're flatfelling a seam, and then it suddenly splits in two).

[ceruleancat]

Oooh, glad the gusset worked out. They're such a good idea, it's a pity they've stopped using them in current clothes making. Would love to see pictures, if you have them.
Ignore the links if you don't like video. I like a mix of sources. But with some things a visual demonstration just clarifies things differently. Just seeing how the different gussets fit onto the garment, how the fabric gets manipulated to fit them (not to mention the variation in fabrics and sewing methods). I also like the accumulation of knowledge. Those people come with different experience, would have read different books, seen different extant garments, .
Mostly, I've just fallen into the costube rabbit hole last year, and I find those videos relaxing to watch.

[luzula]

Yes, I do quite like the gussets! And I'll definitely post more photos of details later on, so I can show off the bits that worked out and get concrit on the ones that worked less well.

No, you're quite right, it would probably be good to watch some videos, and I will! I just have this, uh, mental hurdle to get over to watch videos, as opposed to reading something. It's weird, I know. : )

[ceruleancat]

I watch them for pretty visuals and fabric, not instruction manuals. Bernadette is especially good at cinematographing her videos for mood. The knowledge and desire to sew more is a bonus.

[hyarrowen]

I'm definitely in the detachable ruffles camp. Practical - dress it up, dress it down - and I think in-period?

The shirt sounds lovely. Also, pics of the dog??

[luzula]

Hmm, yeah, detachable ruffles could be a good idea, then I could have a plain set and a fancy set! : )

He is the dog in this photo set! The cuddliest dog ever. ♥

[hyarrowen]

Plain set and fancy set sounds good, especially if the latter is lace!

Your dog looks adorable! And the cuddles are undoubtedly his due. Aw.

[sanguinity]

I also suggest ruffles of a lighter and stiffer fabric than the shirt. (Am I recalling than my historical sewing person used organza? Whatever it was, I think it was light enough to require a rolled hem, which thence stiffened it. Of course, a rolled hem requires that many more hand stitches...)

[luzula]

Hmm. Is this suggestion for the ruffles on the front? As a first step, I guess I will experiment with the bits I've got left of this fabric, but I'll keep the suggestion in mind, if it doesn't look right!

[sanguinity]

Yes, a suggestion for ruffles on the front! This video is what I was thinking of, which uses a light cotton organdy. I thought it was a very nice look.